Welcome to the community! Tell us about yourself, your welding interests, skills, specialties, equipment, etc.
TravisBeard
- TravisBeard
-
New Member
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Wed Feb 14, 2018 2:47 am
-
Location:Clinton illinois
Hey I'm Travis from Illinois and I'm just getting started welding. I'm looking to buy an everlast 160sth with tax money and learn tig and stick so I can eventually get a career going in the industry. I figure I'll have 200-300 bucks to spend on filler materials and I was wondering what would be the best bang for the buck and where to buy them. I was thinking some er70s6 in a few sizes along with some 7018 and 6011 in a couple sizes to get me started. Any and all advice is appreciated.
Get a decent gas lens for your torch, a #7 and a #8 cup. Stick with 3/32" tungsten. Skip the other sizes of that. Trust me. 2% Lanthanated works well (lt blue colored ends).
For filler rod, I'd suggest ER70S-2. Its extremely versatile. 3/32" filler, maybe some 1/8". Skip the small stuff. Learn to control your puddle by dipping less, not dipping thinner.
For SMAW rods, 7018 3/32" and 1/8" 6011. You can weld the whole world with those sizes. Get a decent auto-darkening helmet, a chipping hammer, and an angle grinder with flap disks (a must for TIG welding) and a diamond wheel for your bench grinder to taper your tungstens.
Your machine is only capable of fairly low amps, so you don't need monster sized filler rod and stick rods. Plus, learning, you don't need to run 150 amps on the material for long. Your torch will get quite hot when you do. For TIG practice, work with 1/4" steel, fully cleaned and shiny bright. Don't worry about the "penetration" worry about the technique and consistency. The thicker material will tolerate the heat of repetitive welding.
For stick welding, I'd go even thicker 1/4"-1/2". You will be running beads. Run them until you go sterile. And then do some more. Avoid trying to weld really thin stuff until you get some real practice under your belt.
For filler rod, I'd suggest ER70S-2. Its extremely versatile. 3/32" filler, maybe some 1/8". Skip the small stuff. Learn to control your puddle by dipping less, not dipping thinner.
For SMAW rods, 7018 3/32" and 1/8" 6011. You can weld the whole world with those sizes. Get a decent auto-darkening helmet, a chipping hammer, and an angle grinder with flap disks (a must for TIG welding) and a diamond wheel for your bench grinder to taper your tungstens.
Your machine is only capable of fairly low amps, so you don't need monster sized filler rod and stick rods. Plus, learning, you don't need to run 150 amps on the material for long. Your torch will get quite hot when you do. For TIG practice, work with 1/4" steel, fully cleaned and shiny bright. Don't worry about the "penetration" worry about the technique and consistency. The thicker material will tolerate the heat of repetitive welding.
For stick welding, I'd go even thicker 1/4"-1/2". You will be running beads. Run them until you go sterile. And then do some more. Avoid trying to weld really thin stuff until you get some real practice under your belt.
TravisBeard
- TravisBeard
-
New Member
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Wed Feb 14, 2018 2:47 am
-
Location:Clinton illinois
- bcboy
-
New Member
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:13 pm
-
Location:Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Thanks for the advice!!cj737 wrote:Get a decent gas lens for your torch, a #7 and a #8 cup. Stick with 3/32" tungsten. Skip the other sizes of that. Trust me. 2% Lanthanated works well (lt blue colored ends).
For filler rod, I'd suggest ER70S-2. Its extremely versatile. 3/32" filler, maybe some 1/8". Skip the small stuff. Learn to control your puddle by dipping less, not dipping thinner.
For SMAW rods, 7018 3/32" and 1/8" 6011. You can weld the whole world with those sizes. Get a decent auto-darkening helmet, a chipping hammer, and an angle grinder with flap disks (a must for TIG welding) and a diamond wheel for your bench grinder to taper your tungstens.
Your machine is only capable of fairly low amps, so you don't need monster sized filler rod and stick rods. Plus, learning, you don't need to run 150 amps on the material for long. Your torch will get quite hot when you do. For TIG practice, work with 1/4" steel, fully cleaned and shiny bright. Don't worry about the "penetration" worry about the technique and consistency. The thicker material will tolerate the heat of repetitive welding.
For stick welding, I'd go even thicker 1/4"-1/2". You will be running beads. Run them until you go sterile. And then do some more. Avoid trying to weld really thin stuff until you get some real practice under your belt.
Lincoln Electric AC-225 Stick Welder Canadian Tire
MIG 100E Flux-Cored Wire Feed Welder Princess Auto
PowerTIG 250EX Everlast Power Equipment
Ironton Dry Cut Metal Saw — 14in, on it's way Northern Tool
MIG 100E Flux-Cored Wire Feed Welder Princess Auto
PowerTIG 250EX Everlast Power Equipment
Ironton Dry Cut Metal Saw — 14in, on it's way Northern Tool
Return to “Member Introductions”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities