the cheapskates who made the deck left the stays off the mudguards. so they have broken.
time for more tig practice.
even after grinding the galv off there always seams to be some left. minor smoke and no issue fouling tungsten.
cracks drilled stopped and filled.
quick and dirty stay.
the stubby lens kit works a treat, as does the tig finger. didn't need it for the heat but its nice and slippery.
40amps max, er70s6 1.6mm rod
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
The vibration those endure is their Achilles' heel. Having drilled a hole and passed a bolt through, the bolt hole will become enlarged and rattle about before too long as well.
A trick I've used is to install a rivet nut into the fender, then bolt into it (reversing the direction of the bolt). The rivet nut flares around the hole and cinches the fender within the flares. This isolates the stress to within the rivet nut, and not onto the fender. Another option would be to use a flanged nut on the underside of the fender, tack weld it to the fender, then bolt into it. That way the bolt threads aren't grinding against the fender.
And you'll never get all the galvanizing off of a factory treated part that is thin gauge. It seems to impregnate that material for all time. But good on you for grinding it well first!
A trick I've used is to install a rivet nut into the fender, then bolt into it (reversing the direction of the bolt). The rivet nut flares around the hole and cinches the fender within the flares. This isolates the stress to within the rivet nut, and not onto the fender. Another option would be to use a flanged nut on the underside of the fender, tack weld it to the fender, then bolt into it. That way the bolt threads aren't grinding against the fender.
And you'll never get all the galvanizing off of a factory treated part that is thin gauge. It seems to impregnate that material for all time. But good on you for grinding it well first!
i agree with cj, i have used riv-nuts on my motorcycle fenders
and sub frames for years. they keep the base metal hole stable.
craig
and sub frames for years. they keep the base metal hole stable.
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
have not had a problem with hole enlarging. our other pickups have had 14 years of abuse without issue.cj737 wrote:The vibration those endure is their Achilles' heel. Having drilled a hole and passed a bolt through, the bolt hole will become enlarged and rattle about before too long as well.
A trick I've used is to install a rivet nut into the fender, then bolt into it (reversing the direction of the bolt). The rivet nut flares around the hole and cinches the fender within the flares. This isolates the stress to within the rivet nut, and not onto the fender. Another option would be to use a flanged nut on the underside of the fender, tack weld it to the fender, then bolt into it. That way the bolt threads aren't grinding against the fender.
And you'll never get all the galvanizing off of a factory treated part that is thin gauge. It seems to impregnate that material for all time. But good on you for grinding it well first!
typically they flog out because bolts are loose. quite often either put on loose or junk bolts.
that could be a problem with the above as i was in a hurry and grabbed whatever bolts off the shelf. i actually stripped one. so i'm guessing they might be chienseism steel.
rivnuts are way cool. seen some neat work for putting snorkels on using them. but the tools required cost an arm and leg, pus one of your nuts. ouch!
welding the nut on is a nice idea.
tweak it until it breaks
You can fashion your own tool for cinching up the rivet nut, especially for large diameter threaded bolts. Plenty of examples on the World Wide Web
https://goo.gl/images/J6hgW2
https://goo.gl/images/J6hgW2
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