So, I have this table. The top is 1/4" thick, the legs are 8" x 8" angle iron 1/2" thick. I think it weighs in about 350 - 400 lbs. Obviously wherever I put it, it's going to have to stay there. I think it's going to have to sit outside under a tarp covered Ramada. I'll be using it for welding, carpentry projects, probably fixing chainsaws and stuff like that as well as auto related messes.
I know I need to keep paint off of it and I need to make sure flammable stuff isn't on it when I'm ready to weld, anything else I need to be real cautious with? Is there something I should clean it with before welding?
I figured I'd keep it covered with plastic when I'm not using it and try to keep it protected when I'm working on it but I know I'll get something on it eventually. I'm in the desert so water isn't a regular issue.
Think I'll put it parallel to my metal shed and maybe 4ft out from it. That sound like enough room?
Also, I've seen the welding tables with holes for what I would call helpers or dogs or jigs or whatever. I don't actually have any of them yet so the question is: are they a standard size or does it depend on what manufacturer you get them from? Is it worth trying to drill them especially given the thickness?
I have a lot of questions but moving this table is coming up and I want to get the placement right. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me.
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
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Placing a welding outside is fine, if you don't plan on welding with a shielding gas (MIG or TIG). Wind is your enemy with gas-based welding.
There are a few things you can wipe the surface with prior to welding, but unless you contaminate the surface with chemicals from other work, its probably not required honestly. The grease and oil from a chainsaw would want to be cleaned away, Acetone, Mineral Spirits or Non-chlorinated Brake Cleaner all work fine. Never use Chlorinated brake cleaner as the heat from welding creates chlorine gas...
Those "holes" are 5/8" as a standard. You can drill your 1/4" steel top, easiest to do with a Mag Drill. You can rent one or buy one. Rent is usually about $40-$60/day. You have to buy the bits. Use plenty of cutting oil, not WD-40. An "annular cutter" is essentially the bit you want. Its much like a hole saw with a hollow center and pilot pin. It will drill in a single pass a 5/8" through a piece of steel up to 2" thick in under a minute.
I did my own table, 48"x96"x0.75" steel. 5/8" holes on a 2" center-center grid. I used a Mag Drill and 2 bits and plenty of cutting fluid. Took some time, but in the end, it was worth it. I don't recommend that density for your table unless you're going to run plenty of stringers beneath the surface for rigidity.
As for moving the table, mine is on leveling casters. I place it, level it then use it. When needed, I use a floor jack to raise one end and drag it to another area in the shop and the level it. Those casters ran me about $120 due to the weight of my table (~1,400#)
There are a few things you can wipe the surface with prior to welding, but unless you contaminate the surface with chemicals from other work, its probably not required honestly. The grease and oil from a chainsaw would want to be cleaned away, Acetone, Mineral Spirits or Non-chlorinated Brake Cleaner all work fine. Never use Chlorinated brake cleaner as the heat from welding creates chlorine gas...
Those "holes" are 5/8" as a standard. You can drill your 1/4" steel top, easiest to do with a Mag Drill. You can rent one or buy one. Rent is usually about $40-$60/day. You have to buy the bits. Use plenty of cutting oil, not WD-40. An "annular cutter" is essentially the bit you want. Its much like a hole saw with a hollow center and pilot pin. It will drill in a single pass a 5/8" through a piece of steel up to 2" thick in under a minute.
I did my own table, 48"x96"x0.75" steel. 5/8" holes on a 2" center-center grid. I used a Mag Drill and 2 bits and plenty of cutting fluid. Took some time, but in the end, it was worth it. I don't recommend that density for your table unless you're going to run plenty of stringers beneath the surface for rigidity.
As for moving the table, mine is on leveling casters. I place it, level it then use it. When needed, I use a floor jack to raise one end and drag it to another area in the shop and the level it. Those casters ran me about $120 due to the weight of my table (~1,400#)
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- Mag drill setup
- IMG_2207.jpg (72.48 KiB) Viewed 311 times
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- Annular cutter
- IMG_2206.jpg (63.1 KiB) Viewed 311 times
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