[Olaf]

Hi folks,

recently purchased a new "Chinese" made TIG/Stick welder (inverter) and the documentation sucks. Unlike some of the competition, this box doesn't guide you thru a setup program to setup the welder but has lots of knobs and switches to control the unit. As a result, you can potentially configure settings that don't makes sense
I could use the trial and error method but would rather get some recommendations from the pros.
Questions:
#1: Pulse settings. Watched lots of video on that that explain it well but they don't tell me if it makes sense when doing AC welding like aluminum. Make sense to pulse on AC?

#2: Stick welding using AC
Assuming I have an electrode that supports AC, what should the setting be? Unit can vary frequency from 40 to 200Hz and balance from 10% to 90%. It works when I configure 60Hz and 50% balance which is the same as a transformer based machine (except it's square wave). Do any other setting make sense?

Thanks,
Olaf

[cj737]

Pulse on AC can make sense, but if you’re new to welding, there’s little reason to fuss with it. I use it sometimes with thin sheet, or round tubing when I need to reposition the torch. Else, it’s straight AC for me.

As for AC Stick, you’re on you’re own there. I run DCEP without ever looking back

[noddybrian]

If you have the option of AC or DC why would you choose AC unless you have bizarre arc blow / magnetism thing going on ? also have you tried both as many Chinesium welders that are AC / DC Tig when switched to stick mode over ride the choice & only output DC no matter where the other switches are set - likewise unless you know you want to mess with a setting leave every knob your not actively using on zero as they can have very odd effects on the output - I agree with CJ on pulse - it can be handy sometimes but especially if this is your first go welding as apposed to just replacing an old unit for newer don't mess with it till your used to welding without pulse - it's adding more variables to the learning curve.

[ljdm1956]

Unless I missed it in your post, what is the brand/model, maybe someone else here has the same machine, and might have more info.

[Olaf]

Hi ljdm1956,
The unit is a PrimeWeld 225x. Unit has not been on the market for a long time so doubt that are many users already out there. I bought it after Justin from "the fabrication series" reviewed it and gave it a good review. I really like the unit. Well build and does what I need it to do. I've been doing lots of practicing with carbon steel and aluminum with excellent results. The welder delivers...Just under $800 delivered to the door, great deal. I am very impress with the unit and it even comes with CK -WW torch. But, documentation... and that's the reason for the post.

Thanks for the replies,

Olaf

[cj737]

Much of the variety of settings available on new, modern welders, are not truly needed by 80+% of welding jobs. Some features are helpful, but skill and experience will allow anyone to perform the required work with just about any machine.

Worrying about AC on Stick when the machine does DC is rather pointless unless you need to truly use AC. Even then, I’d probably use DC or AC TIG since your machine is capable.

Pulse with TIG is a very individual thing. I know guys who have welded for 40 years with nothing but a straight arc, transformer, at 60Hz. Adjustable frequency does make certain things easier, but it too is not truly necessary. One specific instance I use pulse (on AC and DC) is if I need to come back and wash a weld. You may find a condition when you can’t be in perfect position, lay a perfect looking bead, and you want a better appearance. Washing can save you. So setting up pulse with a short On a Time, low BKGND, can get you a cleaned up bead without introducing a lot of unnecessary heat.

Forget the dials and knobs, drop the hood, and run some wire. Experience will guide you when you might need to mess with the features

[tweake]

#1: Pulse settings. Watched lots of video on that that explain it well but they don't tell me if it makes sense when doing AC welding like aluminum. Make sense to pulse on AC?

#2: Stick welding using AC
Assuming I have an electrode that supports AC, what should the setting be? Unit can vary frequency from 40 to 200Hz and balance from 10% to 90%. It works when I configure 60Hz and 50% balance which is the same as a transformer based machine (except it's square wave). Do any other setting make sense?

Thanks,
Olaf

a lot of the aluminium pulse is done for looks.
one of the downsides is pulse needs a lot of amps. but aluminium needs a lot of amps just to weld so with pulse you can easily run out of amps.
with thin material, especially stainless, pulse comes in real handy for limiting heat and allowing higher amps which your machine may work better with and be more controllable for you.

its odd for machines to have AC working on stick mode.
but really the amount of times you would ever use it is very low. if your getting arc blow problems then it could be handy.
i would be inclined to run it opposite to tig settings. ie 70% EP and 30% EN so your running mostly EP for the good arc and a bit of EN to break up the field that cause arc blow. (unless your running a rod in EN, then use the opposite).
thats just in theory. but i doubt you will get many situations where you can try that out.