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- exhaust
- 2in_merge.jpg (18.04 KiB) Viewed 838 times
- exhaust 1.jpg (11.69 KiB) Viewed 838 times
- exhaust2.jpg (11.75 KiB) Viewed 838 times
- exhaust3.jpg (11.66 KiB) Viewed 838 times
MaineTigWelder
- MaineTigWelder
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon May 20, 2019 11:18 am
Hey guys I'm about to make a custom exhaust for someone and have a few questions. Also if you have any tips on fitting up these components feel free, this will be my first time doing something like this. He sent me a few pictures of how he prefers it being done and the turbo inlet flange has a 2 into 1 collector both at a 45 degree. I was wonder is there any suppliers that sell those if not what's the best way to make it. It also has a wastage in it. See the pictures. thank you!
When doing this it's usually best to largely tack/build it on the car and use the engine as your 'jig' and also to make sure the pipework doesn't run into minor stuff like alternators and such 
Fit the exhaust flange(s) to the block and attach the flange to the turbo for positioning and clearance checks and then use some temporary rods or straps to position the turbo in the spot it needs to end up in.
On an inline engine you can make use the exhaust flange as a base to tack the temporary support rods too and make the turbo flange 'float' and then you can take it off the engine (with the relative positions between exhaust and turbo flanges now fixed) as a whole and start fabbing on a bench. Make sure to refit and check after each change.
On a boxer or flat engine you usually don't have that luxury (as the exhaust ports are far and wide..) and you either need to build a more elaborate support jig or need to at least tack all the pipe runs together on the car itself and then take it off and to the bench. Again.. Refit often to verify.
Refitting also will show up any issues with that process as far as pipe routes and access goes.
The 2-connection turbo input you may need to make yourself from a flat flange and then just use a bandsaw to cut sections off of bends to create the merge collector. As it's only 2 pipes it should not be a big issue as far as access with your torch goes. 4-1 ones are usually a lot more tricky around the center section.
BTW.. The flanges WILL warp/draw during welding. You can reduce it by clamping them down onto thick steel sections, but even then you will need a belt-sander so flatten the surface of the flanges once it's all done for a proper seal.
Doing a custom manifold that fits well and works can be a pretty time consuming process unless you have jigs ready to go (like in a production setup), so do expect to spend quite some time on this especially if you are starting out. Nothing strange.. Just need to get experience under your belt so any further ones will already be getting easier/faster as you learn the tricks of the trade.
BTW... The flexible section on the picture is important on something like a boxer as the exhaust pipes will expand and contract under heat and if there's no flex then the two runs from the exhaust ports/flanges will start to push and pull on eachother and ultimately crack stuff (pipes, studs, flanges, etc.). The flexi bit allows both sides to grow and shrink independently and not put too much stress on the system. (esp. on stainless as it does grow a lot more than mild steel)
Bye, Arno.
Fit the exhaust flange(s) to the block and attach the flange to the turbo for positioning and clearance checks and then use some temporary rods or straps to position the turbo in the spot it needs to end up in.
On an inline engine you can make use the exhaust flange as a base to tack the temporary support rods too and make the turbo flange 'float' and then you can take it off the engine (with the relative positions between exhaust and turbo flanges now fixed) as a whole and start fabbing on a bench. Make sure to refit and check after each change.
On a boxer or flat engine you usually don't have that luxury (as the exhaust ports are far and wide..) and you either need to build a more elaborate support jig or need to at least tack all the pipe runs together on the car itself and then take it off and to the bench. Again.. Refit often to verify.
Refitting also will show up any issues with that process as far as pipe routes and access goes.
The 2-connection turbo input you may need to make yourself from a flat flange and then just use a bandsaw to cut sections off of bends to create the merge collector. As it's only 2 pipes it should not be a big issue as far as access with your torch goes. 4-1 ones are usually a lot more tricky around the center section.
BTW.. The flanges WILL warp/draw during welding. You can reduce it by clamping them down onto thick steel sections, but even then you will need a belt-sander so flatten the surface of the flanges once it's all done for a proper seal.
Doing a custom manifold that fits well and works can be a pretty time consuming process unless you have jigs ready to go (like in a production setup), so do expect to spend quite some time on this especially if you are starting out. Nothing strange.. Just need to get experience under your belt so any further ones will already be getting easier/faster as you learn the tricks of the trade.
BTW... The flexible section on the picture is important on something like a boxer as the exhaust pipes will expand and contract under heat and if there's no flex then the two runs from the exhaust ports/flanges will start to push and pull on eachother and ultimately crack stuff (pipes, studs, flanges, etc.). The flexi bit allows both sides to grow and shrink independently and not put too much stress on the system. (esp. on stainless as it does grow a lot more than mild steel)
Bye, Arno.