I would like to know what make and model of welding camera you are using in your welding video production. Would you also mind explaining how you set it up to follow the welding progression. Our school is in the process of researching the purchase of a system that would produce clear up close welding video, relatively easy to use, and has flexibility when moving it around the weld area to capture various positions and processes of welding. Thanks!
- LtBadd
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I'm almost certain he doesn't use that, on one of his podcasts at least a year or more ago he said he was using (if I remember correctly) a sony video cam, but I think he has also got a new one since then.
Richard
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You don't need any sort of specific welding camera. You can use any camera, but also need to use a shade. Of course, the better the camera and better the shade, the better your videos will be...just like with anything else.
Looks to me like Jody has used a progression of cameras and shades over the years, getting it all a bit better over time. I'd bet that the shade he used for a number of years was from a Viking hood. I know that view like the back of my hand, and his arc shots were identical to it for a long while. Not sure what he is using now...it looks even better.
You don't need to use the entire hood. It's easiest to just pull the cassette out, make a mount for it and the camera, and to get some fabric for shading to keep out an reflections on the back side of the shade. You may also need to experiment quite a bit with exposure settings, frame rate, focus, etc., on the camera in order to tweak things to get the best shot possible. Takes a bit of setup, but should mostly be a one-time thing if you make a good mount.
I dabbled with all this for a bit and came away with some decent arc shots. Screengrab below is of an arc shots when I was figuring all this out. Turned out ok, I think. Certainly not as good as Jody's, but I only spent an afternoon or so on it.
Looks to me like Jody has used a progression of cameras and shades over the years, getting it all a bit better over time. I'd bet that the shade he used for a number of years was from a Viking hood. I know that view like the back of my hand, and his arc shots were identical to it for a long while. Not sure what he is using now...it looks even better.
You don't need to use the entire hood. It's easiest to just pull the cassette out, make a mount for it and the camera, and to get some fabric for shading to keep out an reflections on the back side of the shade. You may also need to experiment quite a bit with exposure settings, frame rate, focus, etc., on the camera in order to tweak things to get the best shot possible. Takes a bit of setup, but should mostly be a one-time thing if you make a good mount.
I dabbled with all this for a bit and came away with some decent arc shots. Screengrab below is of an arc shots when I was figuring all this out. Turned out ok, I think. Certainly not as good as Jody's, but I only spent an afternoon or so on it.
- My_Arc.JPG (16.79 KiB) Viewed 18010 times
I use a GoPro Session 5 with a gold #10 lens tape on the front. I am still working on my distances, but you can see that I am welding. I use two of them for my YT channel, but have not reached perfection yet. I hope this helps.
GoPros are a very poor choice for this application, IMO. Their lenses tend to be wide-field, and they do not allow any sort of optical zoom. Both of those are bad things when trying to get arc shots. Your best bet if you must use a gopro is to shoot in the highest resolution possible (I think only 4k for the Session 5), and then zoom in on the shot during post. Really not ideal, though. Gopros would be dead last on my list of cameras to use for arc shots.uncledoc wrote:I use a GoPro Session 5 with a gold #10 lens tape on the front. I am still working on my distances, but you can see that I am welding. I use two of them for my YT channel, but have not reached perfection yet. I hope this helps.
I think this is the video clip that goes with that screen grab I posted earlier. I was playing around with this awhile ago, so it's hard to remember the exact setup I was using, but I do know it was a cheapie $100 or so handicam type camera that you can get at Walmart. So my point is, don't worry too much about the camera itself. So long as it is at least 1080 HD and has optical zoom capability, you can make it work.
And again, this could be way better if things were adjusted more...I'm just showing what can be done with an hour or two of setting things up and a cheap camera.
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And again, this could be way better if things were adjusted more...I'm just showing what can be done with an hour or two of setting things up and a cheap camera.
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I have a Hero 8 Black. That and the Hero 9 have a digital zoom (no optical to my understanding).Spartan wrote:GoPros are a very poor choice for this application, IMO. Their lenses tend to be wide-field, and they do not allow any sort of optical zoom. Both of those are bad things when trying to get arc shots. Your best bet if you must use a gopro is to shoot in the highest resolution possible (I think only 4k for the Session 5), and then zoom in on the shot during post. Really not ideal, though. Gopros would be dead last on my list of cameras to use for arc shots.uncledoc wrote:I use a GoPro Session 5 with a gold #10 lens tape on the front. I am still working on my distances, but you can see that I am welding. I use two of them for my YT channel, but have not reached perfection yet. I hope this helps.
My personal opinion is the camera sucks, full stop. Forget the zoom...
