Hi guys
I'm after a little input, I've read all the benifits of using helium with tig welding. However a bottle of helium mix has always been about 4-5 time the price of a bottle of argon, and I have been too scared to price a straight bottle. However I've been having talks with the local gas distributer and they have a helium mix called a "light" being 75 argon and 25 helium. I can get this @ about $25 a bottle extra ( they jam a little less in the heli cylinders so it's not quite as good value as what it seems.)
I would have to change completely over to this to maintain the prices, so that means the mig as well. Would the 25/75 mix be worth doing? I understand that it helps produce a cleaner weld, this would be an attractive point considering I make plate boats and I strive for the best quality weld that I can get.
All the information I have seen on helium mix's have been 50/50 or 80/20 mixes, which is substantualy more than what I would be looking at getting.
Plate boats? That's awesome. I would love to see some pics.
Ever see the USS Independence LC2. Man, that thing is bad ass.
I use Helium when welding titanium, and on Stainless in is real clean. I notice that I can run it at 10-15 with no problems where I run the argon at about 20. So maybe a bottle lasts longer? Someone was telling me that helium is in short supply and the demand is up for the laser welding industry or something. That is why it is so expensive.
I have never used helium on Aluminum but Ill bet it runs clean. Not sure about the mixes, might not be worth it.
Looking forward to hearing more input.
Welding everything from the crack of dawn to a broken heart.
What exactly is the reason you want to use a helium mix?? Is it just for the appearance of the weld?? What do you mean by "it produces a cleaner weld" ?? The only reason you should really be using an AR/HE mix is if your machine is lacking power to produce sound weld zone fusion in thicker material. If penetration is not an issue, straight argon is more than sufficient to produce very clean, sound welds.
Jim
Pipefitter/Weldor out of Local 396
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I have been told by a few people that the helium creates a hotter arc resulting in a cleaner puddle. Thus shinier welds. I only consider this option due to the fact that since I have converted both tig and mig machines to 20 foot leads I have noticed a drop in weld apperance, in particular the tig. As I don't grind back most of the weld on my boats I like to make them a feature, they look the goods but just lack the shinny apperance.
Capozzoli, I own my own business. Just me and a TA that comes in casualy, he helps with the prep work and assembly of the main hull sheets. Other than that I build them by myself, if you click on the website link to the right you can see a few other of the hulls I make. the website is still in progress so excuse the jumbled mess of it all.
Hey that is cool man. Post your website so we can see I wanna look at your stuff dude. That is an amazing boat. Good on ya. Sounds like your living the dream.
that's the website, not all boats are pictured. The website was started from scratch by me and I have learn't alot about websites recently so am in the process of totally re-doing my site.
You would think I was living the dream, contra to belief not alot of money is to be made in custom plate boats (especially the sizes I make) but I just love doing it, like said, it's kinda like art.
I built a 20' Glenn-L Canyon Cruiser plate boat and used ar/he. I went with the Smith gas mixer and a bottle of 99.999 Helium. What I like about using the mixer is that I can dial in just exactly what I need. It's going to set you back about 1500.00 to get setup but when you consider the amount of time your spending fighting shrink and warp it's well worth it. I was never after shinny welds, my purpose was to get in hot and get out quick. Short welds then move to another area and do it quick. Helium will let you do that. It really came into play with a lot of the vertical welds on 3/8 to 1/4 plate. I got the penetration I wanted on the 3/8 and didn't errode the 1/4". Fancy knobs and stuff are fine but sometimes "old school" is the way to go.
Highly skilled at turning expensive pieces of metal into useless but recyclable crap..
