I believe the welder is a Power Pro 256. The one with "all the friggin knobs". I bought this years ago when I was interested in learning to do aluminum. I was barely getting by using the button on that huge water cooled torch. When I tried to use the foot pedal, it was giving me fits, so I shelved it. I've mostly used the welder for it's plasma cutting ability, stick welding and occasional mild steel tig. I typically don't work with sheet metal but I have a little project repairing a rotted 16 gauge generator cabinet. After carefully cutting out the rot and making tight fitting patches, I decided to try fusion tacks. I pulled out the foot pedal again as I thought that was my best choice to make them. Fits again but this time I think I figured it out. It appears as though the pedal operation is backwards. Instead of ramping up when I squash the pedal, it's ramping down. The HF start is fine. Would this be a simple swap of a couple of wires? The Everlast forum that I was a member of seems to be non existent now.
I've only ever used an Everlast once; and hated it. I had all kinds of problems interpreting their "slope" and "mode" settings.
For a pedal to work, you should be 2T, not 4T. And HF obviously. Once in 2T, look at the display and set to 0 all the "slope" and "background" settings (especially the TIME settings). It was damn near impossible for me to get the thing set to ON when I stomp, and OFF when I lift. (I'm a Miller guy and the pedal is super intuitive there...).
I don't think it's a wiring issue unless you have an aftermarket pedal, but even that would be unusual in my opinion.
For a pedal to work, you should be 2T, not 4T. And HF obviously. Once in 2T, look at the display and set to 0 all the "slope" and "background" settings (especially the TIME settings). It was damn near impossible for me to get the thing set to ON when I stomp, and OFF when I lift. (I'm a Miller guy and the pedal is super intuitive there...).
I don't think it's a wiring issue unless you have an aftermarket pedal, but even that would be unusual in my opinion.
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:53 pm
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Location:Pennsylvania (Northeast corner)
stefuel, I have the 256D same machine but digital. be sure you're in 2T, all the other settings to 0 and be sure you're set for dc. If you're doing tacks on thin sheet metal, I'd use the finger button. It just seems to be quicker on/off (for me anyway). You'll want the amps a bit higher than normal for thin material. Put the tungsten right on the joint, wack it and release. Hope this gets you going.
I'll try again tomorrow. Way to hot outside to play with it this afternoon when I get home. The project is repairing rot on my 25KW Generac generator cabinet. The couple of patches I have completed were tight fitted and fusion welded at very low amperage.
I'm still getting warping that is pissing me off (large flat panels). I'm hoping to get the rest tacked in place and then use automotive panel bonding adhesive and strips to finish them off. That should eliminate the warping issue. Generac only sells touchup paint in little bottles and touchup brushes or rattle cans. I'm doing a complete repaint so rattle cans are out. Stopped at Sherwin Williams to see what they use for steel building (water based) paint and they have exactly what I need. Going to be a eggshell semi-gloss to match the newer air cooled models. The cabinet is currently off the generator to replace the exhaust system and repair the sheet metal. It will look like brand spanky new when I'm done
I'm still getting warping that is pissing me off (large flat panels). I'm hoping to get the rest tacked in place and then use automotive panel bonding adhesive and strips to finish them off. That should eliminate the warping issue. Generac only sells touchup paint in little bottles and touchup brushes or rattle cans. I'm doing a complete repaint so rattle cans are out. Stopped at Sherwin Williams to see what they use for steel building (water based) paint and they have exactly what I need. Going to be a eggshell semi-gloss to match the newer air cooled models. The cabinet is currently off the generator to replace the exhaust system and repair the sheet metal. It will look like brand spanky new when I'm done
I thought I'd post a follow up to my backwards appearing problem. I put the sheet metal project off for a while to to finish building a Fisher angle plow adapter for my Case skid steer. For that, I was just doing stick welding. That's when I found the last thing I was expecting. Everything looked weird and backwards even stick welding. It wasn't the welders fault. My cheap ass auto darkening helmet was having a serious brain fart. Everything looked like it was ramping down when it should look like it's ramping up. So much for the cheap Harbor Freight helmet. Bought a new expensive one with a huge lens and all is well.