Got myself a portable (Milw 6230 deep cut var spd) band saw. I had never used one with a sharp blade so I had all but discounted them for my line of work because of the slow speed. I had borrowed them from the fire sprinkler guys and never thought much a need for it. As it turns out, contrary to popular belief, aluminum cuts better for the most part with wood working equipment. So I happen across WT&T on youtube and his video of putting a stand on one and I just had to have it. The cutting aspect (I have a full set of gas torches and a full blown stick welding machine) has been what has kept me procrastinating with doing much steel work this last decade or so.
Any of you guys have, or use them? I am looking at Lenox(always had good luck with Lenox) blades that will also cut stainless. Figure to make the stand and table for mine out of aluminum instead of steel since that's mostly what I have around.
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
You didn't mention how thick of material but if it's </= 1/2" you should look into Banshee friction blades. They're pretty good blades.
I get blades for my horizontal band saw from http://bandsawbladesonline.com/index.php. They custom make any size you want, quick to ship and cost less than anyplace I've found.
Lenox blades are a pretty good too but not a favorite of mine. Don't seem to last for me but I'm usually in a bit of a hurry and probably feeding to fast.
I get blades for my horizontal band saw from http://bandsawbladesonline.com/index.php. They custom make any size you want, quick to ship and cost less than anyplace I've found.
Lenox blades are a pretty good too but not a favorite of mine. Don't seem to last for me but I'm usually in a bit of a hurry and probably feeding to fast.
Go break something, then you can weld it back the right way.
I use their flex back, 6tpi, wood cutting blades for cutting aluminum all day, every day and one blade can last me up to 6 months. All I put on the blade is bar soap. What I liked about them was the amount of set in the teeth which is great for cutting tight curves and such.
Admittedly, I have not used a lot of blades that I knew what brand they were because we used to get all of our bulk band saw blades from a saw shop that used to sharpen our carbide blades and I never asked. Other than that, I had been stuck using home center blades and those suck even when brand new, so once I found ones that worked well and were affordable, I just stuck with them. Same with their hacksaw blades. I use their 18tpi hacksaw blades in my air saw and they cut better than off brand blades for sure.
Most stuff I cut will likely be around 1/4" or less and any tool type steel would likely be annealed. Stainless would likely be 7/8" tubing or up to 1" sched 40 and no more than 1/4" flat stock at most. I will look into those banshee blades though, so thank you for the tip.
Admittedly, I have not used a lot of blades that I knew what brand they were because we used to get all of our bulk band saw blades from a saw shop that used to sharpen our carbide blades and I never asked. Other than that, I had been stuck using home center blades and those suck even when brand new, so once I found ones that worked well and were affordable, I just stuck with them. Same with their hacksaw blades. I use their 18tpi hacksaw blades in my air saw and they cut better than off brand blades for sure.
Most stuff I cut will likely be around 1/4" or less and any tool type steel would likely be annealed. Stainless would likely be 7/8" tubing or up to 1" sched 40 and no more than 1/4" flat stock at most. I will look into those banshee blades though, so thank you for the tip.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
delraydella
- delraydella
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Joined:Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:35 pm
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Location:Detroit, MI
I used to own a Rockwell portaband that I bought at a pawn shop. It was a piece of crap. No matter how hard I tried it would never cut on a straight line. Thankfully it got stolen, so I used the insurance money to buy a Dewalt.....much, much better saw! It actually cuts what and where I want.
We use Morse blades on all of our bandsaws, they work really well for us.
http://www.mkmorse.com/
We use Morse blades on all of our bandsaws, they work really well for us.
http://www.mkmorse.com/
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
I built the stand for it out of aluminum. I didn't attach the table up into the vent like some do. It would have had the table jacked up off of the bolt surfaces. I didn't like the idea of blocking a motor (I used to repair electric motors in a previous life) vent anyhow. If there is an issue with debris, I will make a shroud to protect that area.
I stayed late at work to build it out of junk that was laying around outside the shop. The 1-1/2" column in the back has some weird clear coating on it but I didn't care. Only reason I used it was because it was already the exact length I needed. The little retainer with the curve cut out of it was an eyeball affair. I can tune it up later if I remember to or if I still care after the novelty of this jig wears off. Blade comes on and off as it stands, regardless.
I am going to buy one of those little gooseneck LED sewing machine lights and attach it to it somehow. I will also add some clamp pads to the legs.
I stayed late at work to build it out of junk that was laying around outside the shop. The 1-1/2" column in the back has some weird clear coating on it but I didn't care. Only reason I used it was because it was already the exact length I needed. The little retainer with the curve cut out of it was an eyeball affair. I can tune it up later if I remember to or if I still care after the novelty of this jig wears off. Blade comes on and off as it stands, regardless.
I am going to buy one of those little gooseneck LED sewing machine lights and attach it to it somehow. I will also add some clamp pads to the legs.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
The one i got at work is constantly slipping and the tires aren't worn at all. and if you use it for a whole day it will pop off like 12-15 times. But when it works it works, no lack of power from the motor at all. Was thinking i should make a stand for mine as well. Just need to have a weekend when i'm either not working or baby-sitting my own kid lol.
This one has a bent pulley but I have another on order but the blade stays on. A plumber friend told me that when not in use, the blade tension should be released like a regular band saw, otherwise the tires get hills in them and it will make the sliding head oscillate and throw the blades. Apparently, the tires on these types of saws get rather warm, and they will get distorted if left tightened. Made sense to me at any rate and it's a cinch to release the tension.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
delraydella
- delraydella
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That's a nice stand! I should do something like that. Our smaller horizontal bandsaw will convert to an upright, but it's a huge pain to do it. This would take care of that very easily.
Welding☞Syncrowave 250,Millermatic 252,30a Spoolgun Cutting☞12" Hi-speed Cutoff Saw, 9x 12 Horizontal Bandsaw Milling☞Gorton 8d Vertical Mill Turning☞Monarch EE Precision Lathe Grinding ☞Brown & Sharpe #5 Surface Grinder
I first saw it in one of Jody's videos. For aluminum work, I have an old (believe it or not) 12" Craftsman that I have tuned to work really well with cutting copes and such on sched 40 pipe and all kinds of other things. It's the most used tool in the shop next to the welder. My boss has a Delta two speed 14" but nobody ever uses it. They like the modified Craftsman better, which makes other pros in the know, cringe. I have the same Craftsman saw here at home modified the same way that I bought used nearly 20 years ago. No, it won't resaw hardwood and such like the fancier mills, but will shave the shoulders off of a 60 degree cope on aluminum, in one piece, like nobody's business. The one at our shop has been used hard every day for over 14 years and it had to be older than that when I drug it out of the junk room and put it to work.
Granted, these portable saws only have one size blade, wouldn't be very good for tight curves but as a nipper and trimmer, it should be perfect.
Granted, these portable saws only have one size blade, wouldn't be very good for tight curves but as a nipper and trimmer, it should be perfect.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
I have seen some set up like that. There is a youtube video of a guy who did make one like that. Some outfit that I saw on Amazon makes one but they want as much for it as the saw costs.Oddjob83 wrote:It occurred to me that everyone makes one of these as a stand. I'd like to see some one make it into a chop style saw.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
I want one. I saw MILWAUKEE and DEWALT, but someone has used MAKITA? I read about them http://toolsforwelding.com/hand-held-band-saw/.
The Makita mounts exactly like the Harbin Fart. Google image for one and build away. It the simplest of them all.welderboy wrote:I want one. I saw MILWAUKEE and DEWALT, but someone has used MAKITA? I read about them http://toolsforwelding.com/hand-held-band-saw/.
- Otto Nobedder
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I couldn't tell you what brand it was to save my life, but I did field work in a facility, working on LOADED liquid hydrogen trailers, where electric tools were strictly verboten. I used a pneumatic portable bandsaw that was the best I've ever handled, despite the fact it was 40 years old and the tires were shot.
If I ever see one in a pawn shop, I promise you, it's mine!
Steve S
If I ever see one in a pawn shop, I promise you, it's mine!
Steve S
I just ordered the SWAG Offroad table for my Milwaukee yesterday. Looking forward to having a vertical bandsaw for small stuff.
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V40-Por ... _p_63.html
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V40-Por ... _p_63.html
thatoneguy
- thatoneguy
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Workhorse
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Joined:Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:08 pm
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Location:Texas
I have a Milwaukee Portaband and I frekin LOVE it. Clean cuts, hardly any metal wasted, and if you just have some patience and cut a little slower the blades can last for a long time. I was going to make a stand for it but I think I am just going to buy the SWAG Offroad one.
Everlast Power I-MIG 275P
Everlast Power TIG 250EX
Everlast Power Plasma 80S
Lincoln AC/DC Tombstone
Smith OxyAcetylene
Everlast Power TIG 250EX
Everlast Power Plasma 80S
Lincoln AC/DC Tombstone
Smith OxyAcetylene
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKdkAs482PoOddjob83 wrote:It occurred to me that everyone makes one of these as a stand. I'd like to see some one make it into a chop style saw.
Antorcha wrote:The Makita mounts exactly like the Harbin Fart. Google image for one and build away. It the simplest of them all.welderboy wrote:I want one. I saw MILWAUKEE and DEWALT, but someone has used MAKITA? I read about them http://toolsforwelding.com/hand-held-band-saw/.
Miwaukee is stronger with 11amps. Makita is 7 or so.
I love all my Makita tools, they are the best on my opinion.
I have a Milwaukee 'deep throat' I leave on my base most of the time. I have a 'regular throated' (?) one I dont use as much anymore.
A small piece if cutoff metal jammed in between the blade & base, broke the blade. (<- a new, sharp one, can you weld them back together? I have TA 185 tig welder)
-c-
A small piece if cutoff metal jammed in between the blade & base, broke the blade. (<- a new, sharp one, can you weld them back together? I have TA 185 tig welder)
-c-
Look! a hole in the space-time continuum!
- DLewis0289
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Ace
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Joined:Sun May 01, 2016 7:46 am
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Location:Fort Myers Florida
Well, actually you can, but I wouldn't unless it is an emergency of some sort, just when you are done heat to a dull red and let cool, then pray. Silver solder/braze is the accepted method.
AWS D1.1 / ASME IX / CWB / API / EWI / RWMA / BSEE
Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Many large commercial/industrial band-saws actually have a built in blade welder. This allows you to patch a broken blade, or buy blade in bulk, cut to length, and weld to fit.
This is a resistance-weld device, and I doubt you'll find a practical one for port-a-band type saws, but it's proof that this is done, and often.
Steve S
This is a resistance-weld device, and I doubt you'll find a practical one for port-a-band type saws, but it's proof that this is done, and often.
Steve S
One of our European members posted a link a while back to one of the large machine manufacturers explaining how this welding process worked. If I can find it I will repost it. Certainly was fascinating.
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
- LtBadd
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Check out this Canadian guy on YouTube, I enjoy seeing his machinist and shop video's, here's one on bandsaw weldingColdman wrote:One of our European members posted a link a while back to one of the large machine manufacturers explaining how this welding process worked. If I can find it I will repost it. Certainly was fascinating.
Richard
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