Removing Broken Skid Plate Bolt

450dualsport · Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:41 pm

I was removing the skid plate on my excavator and one of the bolts broke. The plate is not off yet because I think a couple more will break. I watched Jody's video again about removing the broken stud. Would it be best to follow that same procedure? If so, since it is a steel bolt in to a steel frame, should I use steel filler or 309 as Jody did? This will be a challenge as it has to be done overhead with a torch switch instead of a pedal.

I forgot to mention, the bolt is broken off flush.

dsmabe · Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:03 am

Ive done that several times with my flux core welder, haven't had a chance to try it with my new tig. It might take a few attempts but ive never had it not work.

Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:11 am

A lot of guys I know of just weld a washer on to the broken bolt, then a bigger nut onto the washer, the just screw it out. (gently)

Using 309 stick.

Mick

dsmabe · Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:29 am

I like the idea of welding a washer on first! Ive always just welded a nut on.

450dualsport · Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:13 am

Since posting, I read about the washer trick. I assume the idea is that if the hole in the washer is slightly smaller than the bolt it acts as sort of a shield to keep you from welding the bolt to the part?

Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:58 am

I would assume so. And to allow a bigger nut to be welded on. ??

Mick

motox · Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:11 am

weld the bolt to the washer then strike the bolt
with a hammer after it cools, helps to loosen
the old treads. sometimes the nut will break
off the stud or washer but stay with it, it will
work.

MinnesotaDave · Sun Oct 26, 2014 10:51 am

When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.

Artie F. Emm · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:40 am

Never heard of the washer idea... probably allows more surface area too. Did you get it to work? Post up pics if you can!

dsmabe · Sun Oct 26, 2014 12:24 pm

I think the idea behind the washer first is it is easier to weld than a smaller nut.
Welding something about .1" thick vs .5" thick, not really having to weld down inside the smaller nut.

Wes917 · Sun Oct 26, 2014 2:24 pm

What size stud? For large bolts that just wouldn't budge I've had good luck drilling into the stud then heating with a torch then immediately quenching with cool water and smacking an easy out into the drilled hole and then back it out. The only problem with this approach is if you don't get it, it is now hard as hellh

450dualsport · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:07 pm

MinnesotaDave wrote:When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.

Thanks Dave. Glad to hear that MIG will work for this. I was not looking forward to trying to TIG under there. Do you use ER70S-6 wire or stainless?

It is a 10mm bolt that has broken so I was thinking that a 5/16 washer would be appropriate. Does that sound reasonable?

The other thing I have heard that works is drilling it with a left hand bit. Have you ever tried that?

AKweldshop · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:13 pm

450dualsport wrote:
MinnesotaDave wrote:When flush like described, I mig weld a washer, then a nut to the washer, then fill the nut with weld.

Works first time pretty often, most it's taken was three on a really rusty one.

Flux core, tig, stick - they would all work too.
Thanks Dave. Glad to hear that MIG will work for this. I was not looking forward to trying to TIG under there. Do you use ER70S-6 wire or stainless?

It is a 10mm bolt that has broken so I was thinking that a 5/16 washer would be appropriate. Does that sound reasonable?

The other thing I have heard that works is drilling it with a left hand bit. Have you ever tried that?

Drill bits only work if the bolt is broken off clean and straight....

450dualsport · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:34 pm

It is a clean, flush break. The thing I don't like about drilling is that it is hard to get perfectly centered and hard to keep the drill straight when you can't use a drill press (for me anyway) .

Once you drill, and if that doesn't work, is welding still an option?

AKweldshop · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:38 pm

450dualsport wrote:It is a clean, flush break. The thing I don't like about drilling is that it is hard to get perfectly centered and hard to keep the drill straight when you can't use a drill press (for me anyway) .

Once you drill, and if that doesn't work, is welding still an option?

Yeah, it would make it even better once its drilled....
Way better chance at getting good fusion to the bolt....

AKweldshop · Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:51 pm

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AKweldshop · Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:04 am

These are a 9/16" bolt....Rear tractor tire...
They worked loose and snapped off....Which makes everything less impressive

Extractors rarely work on rusted and seized parts....

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79jasper · Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:14 am

Yeah, I've never had any luck with "easy outs."
More like break off and piss you offs. Lol
Idea behind left hand drill bits is it may catch and turn out.
If it's not a blind hole, a normal drill could spin it on through also. (Long as no shank or shoulder is left)
I've heard good things about Kroil made by kano labs. Thrust works well also. And last but not least, pb blaster hasn't failed me often.
For me, it's usually exhaust bolts that I break.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

AKweldshop · Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:19 am

Jasper,
The reason "easy outs" worked for me is that the studs weren't seized that much....
Yeah, kroil is awesome....

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450dualsport · Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:19 am

AK, your tractor project looks similar to what I will be doing, except I will be working underneath.

Thanks for the tips. I think I will drill a bit before welding as I think you would get better fusion to the bolt.

rick9345 · Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:18 am

IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

TRACKRANGER · Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:14 pm

rick9345 wrote:IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

Rick, could you explain that with a bit more detail? I couldn't understand...

rick9345 · Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:22 pm

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1" bar stock1
Drill 5/16(8.5)
Counter sink 45*
Cut off

motox · Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:31 am

awesome trick ill have to chuck up the logan
next time i need to pull a stud from a motorcycle
cylinder head.
thanks for sharing

450dualsport · Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:19 am

rick9345 wrote:IF you have acesses to a lathe, cut a thick washer with a tapered hole no bigger than the tap drill size of bolt, when flush break/ grind, big for heat sink/protect surface and threaded portion. heat and birthday candle wax.

Thanks. I do have access to a lathe, so something else to try.