newbie with lots of torch questions

31fords · Sun Feb 22, 2015 12:17 am

I hope this is the right category for my questions. A few years ago I bought my Everlast PowerPro 205 R series multi process machine which came with a # 26 TIG torch equipped with a trigger along with a foot pedal. I found this to be cumbersome and heavy and I believe this added to my difficulty in controlling the arc. Since I am a hobbyist and totally new to Tigging with lots of control problems I put it aside for future learning.

I've been watching some of Jody's videos and his welds are inspiring to say the least.

I have only used the foot pedal to verify that it is functional and it is and I havent used it since. With the # 26 torch I would press and hold the torch trigger for amperage as in the 2T setup. This would appear to be a normally open trigger switch.

I was thinking that if I purchased a lighter TIG torch with flexible hose that I would not have so much trouble controlling my tungsten from touching the puddle so I ordered and received a CK # 17 TIG torch with flexible hose along with a stubby gas lens kit but to my surprise there is no trigger switch on the it.

Being a newbie, maybe a little embarassed, now what do I do ? I'm thinking now If I'm going to use the # 17 that I have to control it with the foot pedal ? how else would I be able to tell it to supply the power ?

I emailed HTP America asking about the trigger switch and they replied that I could purchase a momentary switch which I would add to the # 17 but I would have to connect this pair to the welder. I think he said I could take the switch off the original # 26 (but its N.O. ???)

I also had written up some stuff about to introduce myself which I ended up saving as a draft but I cant figure out how to find the draft.

What are my options as I am leaning toward torch control in 4T setup so I dont have to keep the torch triggered

HELP - If you can read this plea for help I could use some answers , please keep in mind that I'm real new at this

Thanks
tom

Oscar · Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:04 am

Why are you fixated on using a torch-mounted switch? The foot-pedal gives you infinitely-variable control over the heat input, which is what makes TIG so awesome. I can see how the torch-mounted switch would help sometimes, but foot-pedal is the way to go.

Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:29 am

He's not. He doesn't know anything about it. Please explain to him how a foot pedal works.

Oscar · Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:30 am

weldin mike 27 wrote:He's not. He doesn't know anything about it. Please explain to him how a foot pedal works.

I did, sentence #2

Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:46 am

I have never used a foot pedal. Im still a little fuzzy on operation. So remember, he has no idea what taking a switch torch off and replacing it with a pedal torches requires and means.

taz · Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:04 am

Foot pedals are not so popular in Europe and Australia.
The foot pedal works as a torch switch to initiate the arc and then depending on how much you depress it you can adjust the current.
Full pedal = maximum current
Depending on your machine you can adjust the minimum and maximum current range the foot pedal will operate within.

Personally I find foot pedals a luxury not a necessity. If what you are doing is on a bench then always using a foot pedal will not be a problem. However on the field or in awkward positions I could never get used to using the foot pedal. There are even times I will prefer a simple scratch start rig to a HF torch button start.
Most of that depends on what you weld.
If you work in the aerospace industry welding thin stuff and weird alloys and aluminum a foot pedal is almost a necessity. If you weld pipe in refineries cramped in some pipe rack 20m above ground or repairing some tubes inside a boiler a foot pedal is almost impossible to use.

Oscar · Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:32 am

weldin mike 27 wrote:I have never used a foot pedal. Im still a little fuzzy on operation. So remember, he has no idea what taking a switch torch off and replacing it with a pedal torches requires and means.

I don't think he's that clueless. If he's been watching jodys videos on the welding tips and tricks YouTube channel, I'm sure he has some idea of what it does.

Mike · Sun Feb 22, 2015 10:22 am

Welcome to the forum Tom.

GreinTime · Sun Feb 22, 2015 1:53 pm

Oscar wrote: I don't think he's that clueless. If he's been watching jodys videos on the welding tips and tricks YouTube channel, I'm sure he has some idea of what it does.

You'd be surprised man. You know what they say happens when you assume

31fords · Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:41 pm

Ace - I'm not fixated on using the torch mounted switch. I'm aware of the functions of the foot pedal because I have previously tried it and yes I can see how you professionals would want to use it, however, for now I'm just trying to learn how to weld without the pedal because some of my planned welding would be next to impossible with the pedal.

Weldmonger - thanks for the welcome to the forum, I have read many of your informative posts on this forum over the last year.

From the replies to this thread so far, i take it that I'm stuck using the trigerless # 17 torch with the foot pedal, I can still use the # 26 torch with trigger control in either 2T or 4T.

I refer to Welding Tips and Tricks paper on "TIG invertor settings part 3" where the writer describes the 4T setup which calls for torch trigger control. For now this is the method of choice for me to which I can get better control in learning the TIG process especially since I dont have to keep the trigger pressed.

So now I'll try to find out from Everlast.ca if they carry a certain remote switch which I can use with the CK # 17 or if I have to purchase another # 17 that has a flexiblt hose with switch.

If anybody knows a source please let me know.

Thanks

GreinTime · Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:48 pm

Basically, you have to wire in a switch, or have someone like ArcZone or WeldFabulous terminate the switch with the right Amphenol connector for your welder. You can likely get one from Everlast as well. Most, if not all of the aftermarket switches are either zip tie or velcro to attach it to the torch body, although someone probably makes a torch body with an integrated switxh for a 17 torch. You can slide the round part down off of the torch head on most torches and all that is left is the torch head if you wanted to try and sterling the mounting.

GreinTime · Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:51 pm

Also, the person's name is above their title when you look in the left side, just so ya know. Jody's name is actually weldmonger on here. I believe you were talking to Oscar and Mick respectively.

Oscar · Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:48 pm

GreinTime wrote:Also, the person's name is above their title when you look in the left side, just so ya know. Jody's name is actually weldmonger on here. I believe you were talking to Oscar and Mick respectively.

Thanks, Heavy Hitter!

jk

Braehill · Sun Feb 22, 2015 6:39 pm

31fords,
Check Amazon for an Tig torch switch, they list some for under $6 US that zip tie to your torch. If you want to leave your 26 torch intact, then you'll need to get the seven pin connector from Everlast or online and a piece to twisted pair signal wire long enough to match your torch. The two wires get soldered into pin 1 and 2 of the connector and you're set. Very simple. Others here have used small momentary switches from McMaster Carr also.

Len

Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:18 pm

Tom,

That "ranking" below our screen names is meaningless.

I'm a "Weldmonger", but all that really means is; I've posted a lot.

We each find what works for us. Don't assume any advice I give is the information you need.

Search posts for TamJeff, and you'll see what can be done with a simple "on/off" on anodized aluminum. The man's a genius.

There's more than one way to skin this cat.

Steve S