Ok, so I cracked the oil pan of my car ('00 Toyota Corolla 1.9D ). Again....
Must be the 3rd time now. Hit a stone here on one of my farm roads. Stupid thing is so thin, anything bigger then a grain of sand hitting it cracks it. (Ok this stone was more like baseball size) So I laid a nice black strip all the way to my house, and a nice big puddle on my driveway.
In previous occasion, I took it to our local blacksmith who brased it. Would crack right alongside the welds.
2nd time I just purchased a new one from Uncle Toyota and so I did now. Can't miss the car many days. Now being a member on a renowned welding forum, could it be welded? Or is it going to crack again? Maybe if I find someone with a TIG welder? Maybe preheat is an issue? I myself only have stick and MIG so not sure what I could do with those? What are my options here?
It can be tig welded but will need to be removed from the car, cleaned as good as you can get it, grooved out an welded. You won't get the stack of dimes look but it will weld.
Otherwise, you could clean it well, sand it and jb weld it. The putty style will work better then the 2 part stuff. Then design a metal skid plate to protect the pan.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
DennisZ wrote:I am going to remove it from the car. The new one allready arrived this morning. But I am sure it will happen again....
So I thought I fix this one to be prepared...
Could I weld a thicker plate underneath it?
You could weld a patch over top of it, however I'd still stop drill the crack, then weld the crack first to prevent it from spreading.
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
Your roads must be pretty bad to be bottoming car out or car sits really low to ground. My suggestion is make a new oil pan or have one made. Is really common in racing world to make custom pans. If you do not have experience or equipment find a fabricator. they can use old one as template.
Other option install skid plate
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
Farm roads, reckless drivin', low car and weak suspension in combination with a weak oil pan. I had a Corolla 2.0D before. Lowered it almost 2 inches and never had a problem with that one. Had a steel pan...
Dennis,
Like the others have said, if it's Aluminum or might be Magnesium, it can be welded. Not usually a job for learning to Tig weld on, but it's doable for sure.
If you plan on building a custom pan, I would build it out of steel and your Mig welder could handle that job without purchasing new equipment. Not that anybody here would ever shy away from purchasing new equipment, it's what we do.
Let us know you plan of attack and we can get you through it whatever you decide.
I actually like the thought of building my own! How do I go about making on? I guess I would start of making a flange out of 8 or 10 mm steel, drill the holes, tighten it to the block and tack a box to it and weld it watertight on the bench? I could probably make it a little less deep and a bit wider or longer so it would hold the same amount of oil. Sounds like a plan??
As others have said - it can be welded but I think the most cost effective solution is HTS-2000 & a skid plate - I've used it on occasion on oil coolers & aluminum radiators with good results - less issues with contamination - less prone to re-cracking - less chance of collateral damage from heat near furnace brazed joints - compatible with nearly any alloy so no mismatch of filler material. ( & no I'm not selling it ! )
noddybrian wrote:As others have said - it can be welded but I think the most cost effective solution is HTS-2000 & a skid plate - I've used it on occasion on oil coolers & aluminum radiators with good results - less issues with contamination - less prone to re-cracking - less chance of collateral damage from heat near furnace brazed joints - compatible with nearly any alloy so no mismatch of filler material. ( & no I'm not selling it ! )
I watched the YouTube video of it, pretty impressive stuff! Never had heard of it...
I'm not sure it's that much different from Lumiweld / Durafix or any of the other similar products but it does have it's uses - quite expensive per rod but it can get you out of trouble without needing AC tig or argon & can be done as field repair with quite small torch - I'd say it should do your repair without problem & is more forgiving on thin casting repairs than welding - I'd still pre heat & slow cool though - best of luck with repair & maybe find a suitable size aluminum road sign to make a skid plate out of to prevent further carnage !
What are my options here?
