Hi everyone
I'm getting better at creating straight beads with 6013 and my very cheap 70AMP 110AC stick welder but I'm just starting to weld and wonder if this project is feasible given my skills and equipment.
I'd like to make a firewood holder and I'm thinking about using 1/8" thick x12" wide steel plate. It will be 8' tall with a total of 5 shelves including the top and bottom.
Here's a commercial version that's smaller than the one I'd like to make and it seems to be riveted.
I'm going to practice a lot before starting but is my welder strong enough to penetrate and fuse the metal successfully?
I would think it must be, but is 1/8" plate going to be strong enough to hold the wood. I'm thinking that the top and bottom openings could have the back filled in with the same plate in order to prevent structural problems.
Any and all ideas would be most welcome.
Thanks in advance
Elliot
What welding projects are you working on? Are you proud of something you built?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?
How about posting some pics so other welders can get some ideas?
- weldin mike 27
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I can't see any problem with what you are proposing. If you can do a nice weld, the design is sound, and there is no excessive forces you need to worry about, as a newby. Give it a go.
Thanks Weldin for the encouragement
BTW I've just seen an ad for a Pro-Series MMIG125 125 Amp Fluxcore Welder Kit on sale at home depot for $149 at Home Depot. It got a lot of good reviews on Amazon. So I could sell my stick welder for a bit less and get this. I've been using 5/64 rods on my stick welder and the beads aren't very big (or predictable).
Would this occasional welder get better results for the project with the flux core welder?
Thanks
Elliot
BTW I've just seen an ad for a Pro-Series MMIG125 125 Amp Fluxcore Welder Kit on sale at home depot for $149 at Home Depot. It got a lot of good reviews on Amazon. So I could sell my stick welder for a bit less and get this. I've been using 5/64 rods on my stick welder and the beads aren't very big (or predictable).
Would this occasional welder get better results for the project with the flux core welder?
Thanks
Elliot
- MinnesotaDave
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I've used small flux core welders before - in my experience, yes, a hobby person will achieve good results faster with a little wire feed.eselick wrote:Thanks Weldin for the encouragement
BTW I've just seen an ad for a Pro-Series MMIG125 125 Amp Fluxcore Welder Kit on sale at home depot for $149 at Home Depot. It got a lot of good reviews on Amazon. So I could sell my stick welder for a bit less and get this. I've been using 5/64 rods on my stick welder and the beads aren't very big (or predictable).
Would this occasional welder get better results for the project with the flux core welder?
Thanks
Elliot
However, you will outgrow the little $149 unit quickly.
In my opinion, it is cheaper to get a little better welder now, instead of upgrading again later.
But not much harm done considering its a very inexpensive unit.
I really enjoy having excellent equipment, mostly bought used, but every one starts somewhere - I started with a 225 amp stick welder, oxy acetylene torch, and a 125 amp mig in 1994 - been upgrading and adding on ever since
Have fun
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
- TRACKRANGER
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Elliot
We all have to start somewhere. This would be a good project like the others have mentioned. You probably can't get into too much trouble, so go right ahead. Practice makes perfect, and this would be a great project
Oh, and welcome!
Trev
PS: if only one could cut the fire logs so perfectly as shown in the photo!
We all have to start somewhere. This would be a good project like the others have mentioned. You probably can't get into too much trouble, so go right ahead. Practice makes perfect, and this would be a great project
Oh, and welcome!
Trev
PS: if only one could cut the fire logs so perfectly as shown in the photo!
Last edited by TRACKRANGER on Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
Thanks all - I've decided to get a 220 amp flux core welder. It's still a newbie machine but I'm sure I'll be happier with it and I can upgrade to gas when I have a bit more cash
Here's some more questions that have just occurred to me:
1) The sides of my box are 8' tall and will be made of 3/16" plate steel, 12" wide (I had second thoughts about using 1/8"). Is there any danger that that the sides will deform when I weld the shelves on due to the full length fillets on top and underneath? Would I be better off doing three 2" smaller beads instead of one long one?
2) What is the best way to attach the back pieces? They'll be at least 2 to keep the thing from racking. It might look better if they sit just inside the box but I'm sure it will be easier to put them outside and then grind everything back for a perfect fit? What do you guys think
3) What's the best way to ensure the whole think goes together really straight with good 90 degree joints?
Thanks again.
Elliot
Here's some more questions that have just occurred to me:
1) The sides of my box are 8' tall and will be made of 3/16" plate steel, 12" wide (I had second thoughts about using 1/8"). Is there any danger that that the sides will deform when I weld the shelves on due to the full length fillets on top and underneath? Would I be better off doing three 2" smaller beads instead of one long one?
2) What is the best way to attach the back pieces? They'll be at least 2 to keep the thing from racking. It might look better if they sit just inside the box but I'm sure it will be easier to put them outside and then grind everything back for a perfect fit? What do you guys think
3) What's the best way to ensure the whole think goes together really straight with good 90 degree joints?
Thanks again.
Elliot
- TRACKRANGER
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You will definitely get some distortion on the outer surface adjacent to where the fillets are run.
I would recommend short tacks/beads, not long runs. More-or-less stitch the sides together.
Cut yourself some smaller pieces and practice first.
You can grind / polish / sand any external weld marks later.
BTW: 3/16 is going to make it very heavy! For this job, I cannot see why 1/8" or even slightly less would not be adequate.
Best advice: Practice first on some scrap before you start the main project
I would recommend short tacks/beads, not long runs. More-or-less stitch the sides together.
Cut yourself some smaller pieces and practice first.
You can grind / polish / sand any external weld marks later.
BTW: 3/16 is going to make it very heavy! For this job, I cannot see why 1/8" or even slightly less would not be adequate.
Best advice: Practice first on some scrap before you start the main project
EWM Phonenix 355 Pulse MIG set mainly for Aluminum, CIGWeld 300Amp AC/DC TIG, TRANSMIG S3C 300 Amp MIG, etc, etc
- MinnesotaDave
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Full length welds are definitely not necessary - just not enough weight for it.
The original is bolted or riveted because welds will distort that nice straight side profile.
(and likely for shipping reasons)
Using flat material in this manner is a poor design to begin with, very little structure to resist bowing - the example pic is more for looks than anything else.
In my opinion of course
The original is bolted or riveted because welds will distort that nice straight side profile.
(and likely for shipping reasons)
Using flat material in this manner is a poor design to begin with, very little structure to resist bowing - the example pic is more for looks than anything else.
In my opinion of course
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Wow using flat plates of 1/8" thickness and eight feet in height will surely have some problems specially in warpage and distortion. Better yet simply use square tubings or angle irons of 1/4" thickness with some supports here and there. You may even add some geometric or ornamental scroll designs on the sides to complete the project.
But of course I am not discouraging your desire to create a firewood holder, its just that your targeting materials that will surely pose problems. Good luck anyhow on the project.
But of course I am not discouraging your desire to create a firewood holder, its just that your targeting materials that will surely pose problems. Good luck anyhow on the project.
Hey Robert
The design is definitely a work in progress and I've been thinking the same thing about the potential problems with 1/8" plate.
I've been asking myself even if I get it welded together without distortion won't the weight of the quite heavy firewood cause the 8' ft sides to bend outwards between the shelves?
If I weld in 3" wide 8' strips going from top to bottom at the back on both sides (like wide angle angle), do you think that will stop the flexing?
Thanks
Elliot
The design is definitely a work in progress and I've been thinking the same thing about the potential problems with 1/8" plate.
I've been asking myself even if I get it welded together without distortion won't the weight of the quite heavy firewood cause the 8' ft sides to bend outwards between the shelves?
If I weld in 3" wide 8' strips going from top to bottom at the back on both sides (like wide angle angle), do you think that will stop the flexing?
Thanks
Elliot
I don't think the heavy firewood will cause the sides to bend outward on each shelf. You've got to remember, the concentration of the full weight on each shelf is downwards so I am more concerned with the thickness of the shelf you will use or the support you will add under.
With regards to the angle irons you will weld at the back on both sides, yes it will help a lot stiffening the sides and stop the flexing. Also if I may suggest to weld at the back two solid square bars or round bars from top to bottom like forming a big X, this will also greatly help the structure from swaying left to right.
With regards to the angle irons you will weld at the back on both sides, yes it will help a lot stiffening the sides and stop the flexing. Also if I may suggest to weld at the back two solid square bars or round bars from top to bottom like forming a big X, this will also greatly help the structure from swaying left to right.
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