Guys, I have a wear point on a piece of equipment that is dealing with some impact and is deforming the 1018 steel a bit. I was curious if any of you have a recommendation of a filler metal I could use to run a tig bead around the contact area to reduce the peening/deforming.
I can't really use standard stick hard facing rod as the area is pretty small with critical dimensions around it.
Would a 80 series rod help?
- Braehill
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:16 am
-
Location:Near Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania. Steel Buckle of the Rust Belt
csolo,
Kennemetal makes a rod called Stellite ( not sure of spelling) that can be Tig welded or O/A overlayed. It's Cobalt based, but nickel based rod will work also, they make those too but I can't recall the name, Doro-something.
Len
Kennemetal makes a rod called Stellite ( not sure of spelling) that can be Tig welded or O/A overlayed. It's Cobalt based, but nickel based rod will work also, they make those too but I can't recall the name, Doro-something.
Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
dirtmidget33
- dirtmidget33
-
Heavy Hitter
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Tue May 13, 2014 5:22 pm
Brehill Is Deloro the name you are thinking about. found this link might help you choose a rod type
http://www.stellite.com/ProductsService ... fault.aspx
I never used any of these rods, found link was just reading, I was curious about hardfacing with TIG after reading your question.
http://www.stellite.com/ProductsService ... fault.aspx
I never used any of these rods, found link was just reading, I was curious about hardfacing with TIG after reading your question.
why use standard nozzles after gas lens where invented. Kinda of like starting fires by rubbing sticks together.
May sound cheap but I have tigged on my stick hardweld rods just fine. Just knock off the flux with a hammer and a quick buff on the wire wheel. Even looks purdy. Try a bit on some scrap if you have some. It is a surface bond.
I have a ton of stick rod left over from doing my bucket repairs way back lol. 7018, 11018, 6011, LoCroMo and others.
They're junk for stick welding now with out treatment so I use them when tigging something I should be sticking (but I won't because I hate the fizzle and clean up now and it's just about as fast).
Same thing, knock off the majority of the flux with a hammer but now I don't even buff it. The remaining bit of flux on the rod just cools on the surface and flakes off like fish scales off the ripples leaving spatter free tig weld.
I have a ton of stick rod left over from doing my bucket repairs way back lol. 7018, 11018, 6011, LoCroMo and others.
They're junk for stick welding now with out treatment so I use them when tigging something I should be sticking (but I won't because I hate the fizzle and clean up now and it's just about as fast).
Same thing, knock off the majority of the flux with a hammer but now I don't even buff it. The remaining bit of flux on the rod just cools on the surface and flakes off like fish scales off the ripples leaving spatter free tig weld.
- Braehill
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:16 am
-
Location:Near Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania. Steel Buckle of the Rust Belt
I've also Tig welded more than once with a stick electrode with the flux removed, and even stuck a few 7018's in the collet to weld something I couldn't reach with the Tig. I even fixed a striker plate in a door of an old van once with a Bronze brazing rod made for O/A (flux on) using the Tig torch because I was out of Oxygen, lasted longer than the engine in the van. Any port in a storm.
Len
Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len