[MosquitoMoto]

Hey folks. Very new to this, have had my machine for just a couple of weeks and only recently managed to get a bench set up, so tonight's the first time I've been able to have a go with the foot pedal. Steep learning curve.

Sorry about the cruddy photo. This is one of my first welds, a butt weld on 2mm alloy plate. 1.6mm zirconiated tungsten, 2mm filler, machine topping out at about 80amps. Yeah, and a big fisheye. Oh well.

I have a long way to go but hey, it's a start, right? I have to get alloy worked out because working on lightweight race bike parts will be what I'm doing (at hobby level).

Tell me, am I getting too much cleaning vs. penetration here? Or am I just hanging around too long? Penetration was only okay, and there's a pretty wide frosty zone. Should I dial in a little less cleaning and a little more penetration?

Thanks for any advice you might have. Be gentle...I'm a rank beginner, but eager to learn.

Moz

[Braehill]

MM,
For being new to the game you're doing just fine.

It's always better if you list the settings and include as much info a possible. What machine? Gas flow? Base metal and filler? You get it.

If you don't mind using a first name (nickname) to make the responses a little more personal.

If you use the term "alloy" in place of Aluminum you're going to cause confusion at some point as there are lots of alloys that are not Aluminum.

Set your balance @ around 70% EN to start and your gas flow @ around 10-12 CFH on the Argon. Your cleaning band does look a little wide but not crazy. You'll find that the cleaning is going to be something that changes with how clean your base metal is and joint configuration. You seem to be keeping a pretty consistent torch angle, which is important, more so when you get to tubing.

Practice the padding beads on plate drill that Jody suggests in his videos and it will help with get the feel for heat control with the foot pedal.

Len

[big gear head]

Here is something that I have run into in my job that has caused some problems, and anyone welding aluminum should know this. There are some aluminum alloys that are not weldable. Most 7000 and 2000 series aluminum alloys, such as 7075, are not weldable and can break without warning if welded. It's hard to tell in your picture, but judging by the surface finish it looks like you may have a 7000 series aluminum. When you start making your bike parts be sure that you get an alloy that will be strong after welding and use the correct filler when you weld it.

[MosquitoMoto]

Len and BGH, thanks so much for your comments - every little bit helps.

I'll try to roll out some more information for you. I'll get some specifics when I get out into the workshop later today.

First things first: the aluminium is just some scrap I had lying about, no idea of specifics. I know that it was originally part of an aircraft instrument panel, but that's all I know. Not very helpful, sorry.

As for machine and settings: the machine is a Metalmaster Elite 215 ACDC pulse TIG. Reasonably common here in Australia. And another area where I should have been clearer - I am yet to discover specific settings because this machine has a newbie function where you simply select 'A' for aluminium in the memory, set your welding amps and go. That's what prompted my question; I believe that this standard 'welding for dummies' setting might incorporate a bit too much cleaning, so I'm going to talk to the seller - really helpful guy - and ask him if he'll tell me what the specifics of the newbie setting are. That way I can use it as a base setting and just make some small adjustments.

Good grief I can ramble, can't I?

I'll go do some converting in the meantime, as I'm running 8 litres per minute argon and I'm afraid CFH means nothing to me! One of the great challenges of learning welding is that so much good information comes from the states, but of course none of it is in metric.

EDIT; filler rod is definitely ER5356 in 2.4mm. That much I know. (Most of my consumables were given to me, so I just use whatever I have at the moment although I've heard maybe 4043 is a better all round filler.)

Thanks again. I'll have more specific information soon. Really appreciate your help.

Kym

[TRACKRANGER]

Hi Kym

8 liter/minute = approx 17 cubic foot/hour (source: http://www.onlineconversion.com/flow_rate_volume.htm)

I absolutely understand that you are developing technique at this stage, but remember that you won't get any suitable penetration with a tight butt joint as shown. You need either beveled edges (say 30 degrees) or a gap and a backing plate (copper is suitable).

You're doing pretty good for you current experience. Great in fact.

For info

Trev

[big gear head]

My experience with 7075 is that the finished surface is usually more gray than silver and it usually has a ground finish. I can see what looks like a ground finish in your pictures. If you find some 6061 or 3003 it will weld easier.

[MosquitoMoto]

Hi Kym

8 liter/minute = approx 17 cubic foot/hour (source: http://www.onlineconversion.com/flow_rate_volume.htm)

I absolutely understand that you are developing technique at this stage, but remember that you won't get any suitable penetration with a tight butt joint as shown. You need either beveled edges (say 30 degrees) or a gap and a backing plate (copper is suitable).

You're doing pretty good for you current experience. Great in fact.

For info

Trev

Trev and BGH, again, thank you for your input. All of this helps me learn.

Trev, I had no idea I needed to bevel edges to achieve penetration on a butt joint - I just wrongly assumed that moving more slowly or using more amps would do it. Backing plate info is good, too, thanks.

BGH, thanks for tips on aluminium types.

I took a moment awhile ago, backed off my amps and managed a successful outside corner joint on 1mm aluminium plate (practise for a motorcycle battery box fabrication). Will post pics when I get time.

This is my machine:

https://weldingstore.tokentools.com.au/ ... gital.html

(I had to sell one of my dirt bikes to fund the purchase of this rig, but it was worth it. First ever TIG, awesome machine.)

Now, some context - Argon is very expensive here in Oz. I have a tiny 'D' sized bottle (1.7 cubic metres.) So, while I appreciate the value of advice such as building up pads of beads, every refill costs me $110, so I have to basically get moving on making/repairing stuff as soon as I can or I'm costing myself serious cash. I would do anything to have access to lots of cheap argon and endless hours of practise, but cheap gas just isn't something I can get my hands on in this country.

I know there is no replacement for practise...I'm trying to watch about 2 hour's worth of Jody's videos for every 2 minute's welding I do!

And I must say this: Jody's videos have made all the difference. Every time I weld I see things happening and hear his voice in my head with advice on what to. "Keep that arc tight, man! Watch your torch angle!"

Will post more pics in next day or so.


Kym

[Captainbeaky]

My experience with 7075 is that the finished surface is usually more gray than silver and it usually has a ground finish. I can see what looks like a ground finish in your pictures. If you find some 6061 or 3003 it will weld easier.

I thought the finish was a bit odd
I'm getting the same "sandblasted" look on some of my test pieces.
I was less worried, because I'm working on the bead consistency.
Thank you for explaining that.

[MosquitoMoto]

I'm still not sure what type of aluminium this is, but even my rubbish welds make quite a strong joint.

I set about bashing the hell out of them with a hammer in my vice and the joints don't give up, the parent metal eventually does. Mind you, I have no idea about the deeper aspects of metallurgy such as how it might fatigue under stress and vibration, and these are valid concerns seeing as much of what I make will wind up bolted to a track/race bike.

I am going to get in front of my metal supplier soon and ask him for some specifics of what types of aluminium alloys he deals in. Next time I'll know what I'm welding.


Kym

[big gear head]

Do some searching on non weldable aluminum and you will find a lot of information. The welds don't usually fail right away, but after time. I can't remember the details right now, but there is a lot of information about it on the internet. I think I found some good information on the Lincoln web sight. I've welded 7075 and it held fine for the short time that I needed it to hold. I've also welded it and the weld separated from the parent metal as soon as the weld was finished.

[cptjackm]

I'm still not sure what type of aluminium this is, but even my rubbish welds make quite a strong joint.

I set about bashing the hell out of them with a hammer in my vice and the joints don't give up, the parent metal eventually does. Mind you, I have no idea about the deeper aspects of metallurgy such as how it might fatigue under stress and vibration, and these are valid concerns seeing as much of what I make will wind up bolted to a track/race bike.

I am going to get in front of my metal supplier soon and ask him for some specifics of what types of aluminium alloys he deals in. Next time I'll know what I'm welding.


Kym

I have practiced with a bunch of 7075. I got it from and aircraft worker and the numbers were stamped on it.
I couldn't tell the difference between that and 6061 as I welded with it except it would frequently crack when
I was through. 7075 is frequently used for gun parts, and aircraft wings and panel, riveted or bolted together.
It's quite strong used that way.
That's a crazy price you're paying for gas. I use large cylinders here (California). It's cheaper per cf and saves trips
to the welding store.
Keep up the good work.
Jack

[MosquitoMoto]

Do some searching on non weldable aluminum and you will find a lot of information. The welds don't usually fail right away, but after time. I can't remember the details right now, but there is a lot of information about it on the internet. I think I found some good information on the Lincoln web sight. I've welded 7075 and it held fine for the short time that I needed it to hold. I've also welded it and the weld separated from the parent metal as soon as the weld was finished.

Thanks BGH. I'm gonna make a cup of tea and do some net surfing right now.


Kym